Is my water hard or soft, and do I need a softener?

Your water utility publishes hardness in its annual water quality report. Check that number before you buy any equipment. Hardness depends on your water source, and homes on well water often test differently than homes on city water. We test at your tap for hardness, chlorine, iron, and sediment. You pay only for treatment that solves a problem in your home. White scale on a shower head and crust inside a water heater point to hardness. Orange staining points to iron. A chlorine smell or sediment in the faucet aerator calls for a filter. If your numbers come back low, we'll tell you a softener isn't worth installing. Here's a typical scenario: a family notices a white crust on every faucet and spots on the dishwasher glasses, and assumes they need a softener. Our test shows the hardness is moderate, but the real problem is a rusted water heater anode rod throwing sediment into the lines. Replacing the rod and flushing the tank solves the spotting at a fraction of the effort of a whole-house system. Testing first keeps you from buying equipment that doesn't fix what's wrong.

What plumbing issues are most common in older Lowcountry homes?

Aging pipes cause most of the calls we see in older homes. Downtown single houses and brick row homes often still have cast iron drains and clay sewer laterals that crack, sag, or fill with roots. Mid-century neighborhoods have galvanized supply lines that rust shut from the inside, which is why water pressure fades over the years. Homes built between the late 1970s and mid-1990s sometimes still have polybutylene supply pipe, which turns brittle and leaks at the fittings. A high water table keeps the soil around buried lines saturated. A small crack lets in roots and silt quickly. A typical case might be this: if you have a toilet replaced, you find that the floor drain makes a gurgling sound and then, following a heavy rain, the tub on the first floor overflows. A camera examination reveals pine roots in a clay pipe and an offset joint beneath the front yard. The roots are cleared by jetting, but since the offset will cause them to return again, we discuss with you the possibility of a spot repair or a full replacement and show you the footage so that you can decide for yourself. Plumbing in newer neighborhoods fails differently. Homes in Nexton and on Daniel Island rarely have cracked clay pipes, but they do have builder-grade faucets, fill valves that stick, and water heaters installed in tight closets with little room to service them. Those calls run shorter, and the fix is usually a part. Whatever the age of your home, we start by finding which of those two situations you're in.

How do I know if I need a professional plumber?

If water shows up where it shouldn't, or stops showing up where it should, call us. Most of your plumbing hides inside walls, under slabs, and underground. The signs appear indirectly. A water bill that climbs with no change in habits points to a hidden leak, and a patch of unusually green grass over your sewer line points to a break underneath. The fact that the pipes are gurgling, that there are slow drains in several outlets, and the presence of a foul odor coming from a drain all indicate that the main line is having difficulties. Other common symptoms include low water pressure, damp drywall, ceiling stains, and rusty or cloudy water. Using ready-made drain cleaners and a hardware store snake will clear away the obstruction on the surface and leave the root cause behind, which is why the same drain becomes slow again a month later. When a symptom continues or recurs, we will locate the source by means of a camera or a pressure test and show you what is there. Let's take the case of hot water. When the shower comes out at lukewarm temperatures, and the heater is only five years old, the problem is most likely due to a failed dip tube or a defective mixing valve. A simple test will show which it is, and the cost of the repair is only a small part of that of replacing the component. We prefer to identify the actual cause rather than give you a job that is larger than what you actually need.

Do you charge by the hour or by the job?

By the job. Always. We set our flat-rate price after the diagnosis, and it doesn't change if the repair takes longer than we expected. It also means no overtime charge when you call at night, on a weekend, or on a holiday. If a second problem turns up mid-job, we stop, show you, and quote it separately. Hourly billing works the other way. A corroded shutoff valve that won't budge or a cleanout buried under a patio adds to your bill every minute. You'll hear the total before we pick up a tool, and that's how we keep the work honest. A clear example is a blocked kitchen drain. An hourly plumber will clear it, charge you for the time spent, and then leave even though the grease deposit remains. We inspect the drain, show you the scale, and offer you a fixed price to clean it out. The solution lasts longer than a week. If it is discovered that the drain has a bend or a crack, we let you know about it and then let you decide whether you want a repair or a cleaning, with all the facts available to you.

Which plumbing code applies to work on my home in the Charleston area?

South Carolina enforces a statewide plumbing code built on the International Plumbing Code, with state modifications. The 2021 edition of the IPC applies until the end of 2026, with the 2024 edition coming into effect for local jurisdictions on January 1, 2027. We work from whichever edition your permit falls under. Water heater replacements, sewer line repairs, and new fixture rough-ins typically need a permit, and we pull it and schedule the inspection for you. The rules that you can't see are established by the code, covering areas such as the arrangement of traps and vents, the materials used for the pipes, and the drain pan and relief line, which should be placed under a water heater in an attic or closet. Moreover, the inspector's approval provides you with a record showing that the work complied with the code, something that will be useful to you if you ever sell the house or make an insurance claim. We handle the permit up front so you don't inherit a paperwork problem later, and we explain what the inspector will check before they arrive.

What impact does the coastal climate have on plumbing?

Salt air and constant humidity wear on exposed metal faster near the water. Coastal homes feel it first. Brass hose bibs, galvanized fittings, water heater flue connections, and crawl-space copper corrode first, especially on Isle of Palms and Folly Beach, where salt reaches every exterior fitting. Humidity also makes cold supply lines sweat, and the drip lands on subfloors and insulation where it gets mistaken for a leak. We look for green or white crust on fittings, pitting on copper, and rust streaks under a water heater. Stainless braided supply lines, dezincification-resistant brass, and PVC drain lines outside hold up better than bare steel or standard brass. Insulating the cold lines in a crawl space stops most of the sweating. A real-world example is a beach house that sits empty for weeks. Humidity fills the space, a toilet supply line corrodes at the stop valve, and the first sign is a soft spot in the bathroom floor. We replace the valve and line with corrosion-resistant parts and add a water shutoff routine for when the house is vacant, such as closing the main before a long stay away. Second homes and rentals along the coast benefit most from those small steps.

What plumbing calls come up during hurricane season?

Hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30. The calls usually involve water going the wrong way. Heavy rain overloads sewer lines and drains, which pushes water up through floor drains, tubs, and low toilets. Tidal flooding adds water to the system faster than low-lying areas, such as parts of James Island and the downtown peninsula, can drain it. A backwater valve on the sewer line keeps that flow out of the house, and we'll tell you whether one fits your home. Before a storm, you'll want to confirm your cleanout cap is tight, clear the yard drains, and locate your main shutoff. After a storm, hold off on running water if sewage has entered the house until we've checked the line. We also inspect any water heater that sat in floodwater, since its burner and controls are unsafe to relight after submersion. Some storm calls are quieter. A power outage shuts off sump pumps, and a day of rain refills a crawl space. A tree falls across the yard and shears a water service line, and you notice a wet patch growing in the grass. If you lose pressure after a storm or spot new water in the yard, close your main shutoff and call us, and we'll locate the break before it undermines the soil under your slab or walkway.

How do I schedule plumbing service with Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Charleston?

Tell us what you're seeing. We'll book the first window that works, including nights and weekends. When you need a plumber in Charleston, SC neighborhoods at an odd hour, our dispatchers are available around the clock to provide great customer service. Contact us today , and we'll confirm your time and send a plumber who has the right parts for the job. From backed-up sewers to broken pipes, our specialized knowledge and service experience have you covered.

What other services do you offer?

We handle far more than drains and leaks. Most weeks we also do water heater installation, including tankless water heaters, water line services, plumbing repair and pipe replacement for failing supply lines, and garbage disposal repair. We install water filters, softeners, and sump pumps, repair gas lines, and work on irrigation systems. A tankless unit needs a gas line and venting sized for it, so we check both before we recommend one. For the full range of plumbing services Charleston, SC homes and businesses need, tell us what you're dealing with, and we'll point you to the right fix.

When does repiping make sense?

Repiping makes sense when leaks keep appearing in different spots on the same supply line, or when the pipe material itself is known to fail. Three or four pinhole leaks in copper within a couple of years, galvanized lines that deliver rusty water and weak pressure, and polybutylene pipe from that same era are the usual reasons. Patching one spot at a time costs less in the moment and more over the following years, with a wet wall each time. During a repiping service, your Charleston plumbers will replace the old lines with new material like PEX, which flexes, resists corrosion, and runs with fewer fittings. That leaves fewer places to leak. We plan the route to keep wall openings small, protect your floors, and restore water the same day when the layout allows. Before we commit to a repipe, we test your pressure and check which lines are failing, because some homes only need a section replaced.

What causes recurring clogs, and how do you stop them?

A clog that keeps coming back means the cause sits deeper in your drain lines. It's rarely just because of the clog itself. For example, kitchen lines can clog from grease buildup over time that cools and hardens on the pipe wall, bathroom lines from hair and soap scum, and main lines from tree roots or wipes labeled "flushable" that never break down. A snake punches a hole through the blockage, but it leaves the buildup on the walls, and the hole closes again in a few weeks. It's why we perform a drain or sewer camera inspection first, so we see what's in the pipe, what's causing it, and we pick the right tool to fix it. HydroScrub® jetting scours the walls with high-pressure water and clears grease and scale a snake leaves behind. If the camera shows a crack, a sag, or an offset joint, we say so and quote the repair. Many homeowners in older neighborhoods call us about the same drain two or three times before they learn the pipe itself is failing, and one camera pass usually settles it.

How do I tell where a toilet leak is coming from?

Where the water shows up tells you what failed. Water around the base after a flush usually means a failed wax ring or a cracked closet flange, the fitting that joins the toilet to the drain. A tank that drips from the bottom bolts points to worn tank-to-bowl gaskets, and a supply line leak shows up at the wall valve or the connection under the tank. A toilet that refills every few minutes on its own is leaking inside, past the flapper. To confirm, put a few drops of food coloring in the tank, wait 15 minutes without flushing, and look for color in the bowl. If the base is wet or the floor feels soft, stop using the toilet and call us, because a rotted subfloor is far easier to fix before it spreads. We pull the toilet, check the flange for cracks and a good seat height, replace the wax ring, and set the toilet level. Flange height trips up more toilet installs than you'd expect. After a floor gets new tile, the flange often sits below the finished surface. The wax ring won't seal, and the toilet weeps at the base. A flange extender fixes that without ripping up the floor. If the toilet rocks, we also shim and caulk it so the seal isn't stressed every time someone sits down, and we confirm the bowl fills and flushes cleanly before we leave.

How do you handle plumbing in historic homes?

We match the repair to the building. Heart pine floors, plaster-and-lath walls, and brick foundations don't tolerate big openings. We locate pipe with a camera and access panels first, then cut small and patch cleanly. Many downtown homes still carry cast iron drains and old galvanized supply lines, and we replace those in sections so you keep working fixtures while we go. Homes inside the Old and Historic District answer to the city's Board of Architectural Review for anything visible from the street. We flag exterior vents, tankless exhaust terminations, and equipment pads early, before the install. If your home is older than 1940, tell us when you call, and we'll bring transition couplings for joining cast iron to PVC on the first visit. A typical historic house alteration is the addition of a bathroom on the third floor many years after the house was constructed. The drain goes through an existing chase; the vent was always too small, and the bathroom makes gurgling noises every time someone takes a shower in the downstairs bathroom. By opening one access point, we fix the vent and reroute the most problematic section, thus keeping the plaster throughout the rest of the wall undisturbed. This method preserves the original finishes while at the same time bringing the work up to code.

What are the benefits of trenchless sewer repair?

Trenchless repair fixes a sewer line through small access holes, and the long open trench never happens. Your yard, driveway, and trees stay in place. We start with a camera inspection to map the break and measure the pipe. Then we either line the old pipe with a resin liner or pull a new pipe through the old path while breaking it apart, which is called pipe bursting. Older neighborhoods put the sewer lateral under a brick walkway, a patio, or the root zone of a live oak, and restoring any of those takes longer than the pipe work itself. Trenchless doesn't suit every failure. A fully collapsed line or a sagging section that holds water needs a spot excavation, and the camera tells us which one you're dealing with. On a typical trenchless job, you'll hear what we found before we start. We clear the line, run the camera, and walk you through the footage. Then we mark the entry points, set up the liner or the bursting equipment, and finish with a second camera pass so you see the new pipe from end to end. The yard stays largely intact, and you're not looking at a trench running across the front lawn for a week.

The Plumber Charleston, SC Homeowners Trust for Lasting Repairs

Quality Work by Local Plumbing Professionals

When the washing machine won't drain, the tub gurgles, or your water heater cuts out during a shower, you'll need a Charleston plumber who answers the phone and shows up when promised. Mr. Rooter® Plumbing of Greater Charleston has provided services in the Lowcountry since 2002 and handles repairs and replacements for pipes, drains, and water heaters in homes and offices, giving you a fixed price before any work begins.

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What Happens When You Call Our Expert Plumber In Charleston, SC

Here's a call we get a lot in West Ashley. Your tub gurgles every time the washing machine drains, and by Sunday night, the garage floor drain starts backing up too. When you call Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Charleston, we send a plumber who begins with a video camera inspection through the cleanout. That way, we see what's going on inside the line before we do any work.

In some older ranch-style houses, the pine roots tend to push apart the joint in the clay pipe. We can clear the blockage with HydroScrub® jetting during the visit. You'll be able to watch the camera footage with us and then take part in deciding what to do next. If the pipe has sagged or collapsed, we'll show you the situation and explain the repair options, since jetting a broken pipe is only a temporary solution.

All calls are handled in the same way: you describe to us what you've seen, heard, or smelled, and we then investigate it. We always give you your options in simple terms. Our team is based in North Charleston, and the plumbers Charleston homeowners call back take the time to explain the problem before quoting. We'll let you know if a repair will last. When it becomes necessary to replace a pipe or plumbing fixture in your house, we'll make it clear why this is the case and give you a fixed price for the replacement. We'll also tell you what can wait and what should be addressed right away. For instance, a slow drip beneath the bathroom sink is less urgent than a failing main shutoff valve. We'll assist you in working out the priorities so that you won't feel compelled to carry out all the repairs at the same time.

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Residential & Commercial Services

Our plumbers in Charleston, SC, will arrive at your home or business and give you a free plumbing inspection and quote for the work you need to be done. Our no-obligation estimates ensure accuracy. With high-quality repairs, fast service, and professional conduct, you can trust your home to our capable hands.

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What is The Neighborly Done Right Promise®?

When it comes to finding a plumber for your home or business, you want to know that they stand behind their work and get the job done right—the first time. At Mr. Rooter Plumbing®, we have the skills to make sure we fix the issue correctly and effectively. We strive to provide you with choices to resolve your plumbing issue and perform professional workmanship on the option you choose. By calling on our team of skilled service professionals and qualified plumbers, you can be sure it will be Done Right.

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What is The Neighborly Done Right Promise®?

Why Choose Us?

At Mr. Rooter Plumbing, you’ll know exactly what you’re paying upfront. Our flat-rate pricing keeps you in control with no surprises. Before starting, we explain the services, ensuring you can make informed decisions. Stick to your budget while getting quality plumbing you can trust—every time!
We always put the customer first, from our professional appearance to all the steps we take to keep your space clean. We’re licensed and insured, so you know your home is in good hands.
We get it—home care can be stressful. That’s why at Mr. Rooter Plumbing, we back our work with the Neighborly Done Right Promise®. If it’s not right, we’ll make it right. Trust our skilled plumbers to fix it the first time and deliver service so good … you’ll want to call us again!

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Charleston

Choose the plumbing services team in your area. When selecting a team for your commercial or residential plumbing services, Mr. Rooter is the right choice.

Areas We Serve

Plumbing Services Charleston, SC Homes Depend On

The plumbing is in use every day, from the first shower in the morning until the dishwasher is used at night, and homes in the Lowcountry place a greater strain on it. Salt air, high humidity, and the variety of house types all contribute to the problem, whether it's 1920s single-family houses in the downtown area or more recent constructions in Nexton. Each period has its own weak point: cast iron and clay pipes lie beneath the older houses, galvanized steel is found behind the kitchens from the mid-20th century, copper tends to develop pinhole leaks close to the coast, and PEX is used in the more newly built subdivisions.

We use the method that is appropriate for each type of material; for example, a cast iron stack is either clamped or sleeved using no-hub couplings, a clay lateral is either lined or replaced, and a failed copper pipe is cut out and rebuilt using either PEX or new copper. It is by matching the repair to the particular pipe that we avoid having to call you back with the same issue.

When any fixture or pipe in your house is causing problems, we deal with it. Below is a list of the jobs we usually carry out each week:

Drains: Drain cleaning, clogged drain service, and drain repair or replacement
Sewers: Sewer backup service, trenchless sewer repair, and sewer line replacement
Water heaters: Water heater repair and replacement, including tankless units
Pipes: Leak detection, leaking pipe repair, frozen pipe repair, and whole-house repiping
Fixtures: Faucet installation, sink repair, toilet installation, and garbage disposal repair
Extras: Sump pumps, water filters and softeners, gas line work, irrigation, and bathroom remodeling

When three or four spots on a single line have failed, we'll show you how to repipe using PEX, so that you're no longer forced to deal with the leaks one at a time. In newer houses in Nexton and in similar areas, the pipes themselves are in good condition, but because of builder-grade fixtures, the water heater being placed in an attic closet, and the absence of an expansion tank, most of the calls back occur, and each of these cases requires only a short and simple repair.

Commercial Plumbing for Local Businesses

The cost of a plumbing fault in a business goes beyond the price of the repair since both customers and employees become aware of it on the same day. For example, in a restaurant kitchen, the grease drain may slow down during a dinner service, or in a retail shopping area, one tenant's toilet could back up into the adjacent unit via a common sewer lateral. We attend calls of this type for commercial properties, and the first step is to identify the particular pipe that is faulty. We feed a camera down the pipe to locate the blockage or the break and then jet it or carry out the repair so that the solution addresses the root cause. In the case of a kitchen drain line, this generally involves cutting through a layer of grease which has reduced a 4-inch pipe to the diameter of a garden hose. With a shared lateral, the procedure is to find the break and then consult with the property manager before any floor drains overflow.

Commercial systems are larger than those in a private household, having more fixtures on each line, bigger water heaters, and backflow preventers which require frequent testing. If you are in charge of a property, we will establish a maintenance schedule to suit your building and adjust it to your working hours whenever possible. The teams we send arrive in uniform and have been background-checked so that your tenants and customers see professionals around the building. Hotels, short-term rentals, and restaurants operate heavily during the busy seasons in the Lowcountry, and the kind of situation we most want to avoid is a blocked line during a weekend when the property is full. Two habits that help prevent many of these emergencies are carrying out a camera inspection of the main line once every quarter and regularly jetting the kitchen drains.

Emergency Service, Day or Night

No need to panic: our emergency plumbing team will leave from our workshop in North Charleston at all times, including during the night, on weekends, and on holidays, and your flat-rate price remains the same whether you call at 2 a.m. or during normal business hours. If your toilet is overflowing and you've phoned a plumber in Charleston in the middle of the night, we'll guide you in shutting off the water supply until the truck gets there.

Some plumbing emergencies are obvious, like burst pipes in the attic causing water damage or sewage coming up a floor drain posing a health hazard. Others look minor—a water heater that rumbles, a shower drain that clogged over a holiday weekend, a toilet that runs all night—but they really aren't. Even a slow leak behind a wall rots framing for weeks before a stain appears. If you're not sure if you need emergency plumbing services, call us, and we'll let you know if it can wait or not.

Frozen pipes do occur in this area as well, even though it doesn't happen every winter. The supply lines in the attics and crawl spaces of Lowcountry homes usually have very little insulation. A severe freeze will cause a pipe to break before anyone realizes it. In that case, you should open the closest faucet and then get in touch with us.

We are going to thaw it, fix the crack, and then inspect the rest of the pipe before the water is turned back on. Pipes in an exterior wall or in an uninsulated crawl space are most likely to crack, and the break usually lies a few inches from the place where the ice formed. The emergency that occurs during hurricane season is different: either a tree branch damages a service line, or storm debris blocks the yard drain and causes water to flow towards the house. We deal with these situations in the same way—by switching off the water first, carrying out the repair next, and then giving a clear explanation of what had failed.

Why Local Homeowners Choose Our Team of Pros

When a problem arises, your local Mr. Rooter Plumbing is here to help. We belong to the Neighborly family of home services brands, which enables us to handle jobs of any scale in Charleston, Mount Pleasant, Daniel Island, Summerville, and Sullivans Island each week. Four points remain the same on each visit.

Screened, Uniformed Professionals

Every plumber Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Charleston sends to your front door has passed a comprehensive employee background check, wears a uniform, and arrives in a marked truck. You know who's at your door. We explain each step before we start and again when we finish. If you'd like to see the old part or the camera footage, ask, and we'll show you. Plumbing is easier to trust when you see what failed. We'll also tell you which of the problems we found need attention now and which ones you're able to plan around.

High-Quality Workmanship and Parts

We back our work with the Neighborly Done Right Promise®, ensuring the quality of the workmanship and parts used in your service. Most plumbing ends up behind drywall or under a slab, so you want a company that stands behind its work. If a part we installed fails, we return and replace it. We hold to the same standard in Hanahan and Goose Creek, where many homes have decades of repairs behind the walls. When we open a wall and find a patchwork of old copper, galvanized, and CPVC, we replace the weak link with the right material and test the repair under pressure before we close it up.

Upfront Flat-Rate Pricing Estimates

You'll be aware of the price before we begin. Once the issue has been identified, we'll provide you with a single, fixed price for the entire job. There will be no unexpected charges on your final bill. The price remains unchanged on nights, weekends, and holidays since we don't charge overtime. Should a wall turn out to reveal something unforeseen, no changes will be made without your approval.

Convenient Appointment Times

We will book a window that matches up with your day and turn up within it. You are not having to give up your workday in order to wait for us; visits in the evening, over the weekend, and on holidays are also available since a leaking supply line doesn't follow the calendar. So if there's already been a plumbing problem on your to-do list, just request a service appointment, and we'll locate a time that suits you.

Customer Reviews

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Very friendly and helpful, got everything working perfectly!

Jessica R.

★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Lee was so quick to arrive and get the job done. I have never had such an easy experience with a plumber. Thank you! We’ll be back when we need you.

Jeff W.

★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Mr. Rooter fast response . Tyler arrived within an hour from my call. Was very knowledgeable and fixed the problem in a half hour. Good service.

Eugene G.

★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Tyler came out and fixed our problem. He was great- professional, efficient and very polite. We have a family member on hospice, and it is a very stressful time. I would highly recommend him, and I will ask for him again should we have issues in the future.

Jennifer S.

★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Absolutely wonderful service today. Quick, efficient, and knowledgeable. Saved the day!

Katherine M.

★ ★ ★ ★ ★

The Neighborly Done Right Promise® delivered by Mr Rooter Plumbing®, a proud Neighborly company.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Our Plumbers: Charleston, SC

If you have any questions regarding plumbing or would like to find out more about our plumbers, you can rely on us if you live in Charleston, since our team is always ready to provide you with the information and solutions you need for any plumbing problems.

South Carolina enforces a statewide plumbing code built on the International Plumbing Code, with state modifications. The 2021 edition of the IPC applies until the end of 2026, with the 2024 edition coming into effect for local jurisdictions on January 1, 2027. We work from whichever edition your permit falls under. Water heater replacements, sewer line repairs, and new fixture rough-ins typically need a permit, and we pull it and schedule the inspection for you.

The rules that you can't see are established by the code, covering areas such as the arrangement of traps and vents, the materials used for the pipes, and the drain pan and relief line, which should be placed under a water heater in an attic or closet. Moreover, the inspector's approval provides you with a record showing that the work complied with the code, something that will be useful to you if you ever sell the house or make an insurance claim. We handle the permit up front so you don't inherit a paperwork problem later, and we explain what the inspector will check before they arrive.
By the job. Always. We set our flat-rate price after the diagnosis, and it doesn't change if the repair takes longer than we expected. It also means no overtime charge when you call at night, on a weekend, or on a holiday.

If a second problem turns up mid-job, we stop, show you, and quote it separately. Hourly billing works the other way. A corroded shutoff valve that won't budge or a cleanout buried under a patio adds to your bill every minute. You'll hear the total before we pick up a tool, and that's how we keep the work honest.

A clear example is a blocked kitchen drain. An hourly plumber will clear it, charge you for the time spent, and then leave even though the grease deposit remains. We inspect the drain, show you the scale, and offer you a fixed price to clean it out. The solution lasts longer than a week. If it is discovered that the drain has a bend or a crack, we let you know about it and then let you decide whether you want a repair or a cleaning, with all the facts available to you.
If water shows up where it shouldn't, or stops showing up where it should, call us. Most of your plumbing hides inside walls, under slabs, and underground. The signs appear indirectly. A water bill that climbs with no change in habits points to a hidden leak, and a patch of unusually green grass over your sewer line points to a break underneath.

The fact that the pipes are gurgling, that there are slow drains in several outlets, and the presence of a foul odor coming from a drain all indicate that the main line is having difficulties. Other common symptoms include low water pressure, damp drywall, ceiling stains, and rusty or cloudy water. Using ready-made drain cleaners and a hardware store snake will clear away the obstruction on the surface and leave the root cause behind, which is why the same drain becomes slow again a month later. When a symptom continues or recurs, we will locate the source by means of a camera or a pressure test and show you what is there.

Let's take the case of hot water. When the shower comes out at lukewarm temperatures, and the heater is only five years old, the problem is most likely due to a failed dip tube or a defective mixing valve. A simple test will show which it is, and the cost of the repair is only a small part of that of replacing the component. We prefer to identify the actual cause rather than give you a job that is larger than what you actually need.
Aging pipes cause most of the calls we see in older homes. Downtown single houses and brick row homes often still have cast iron drains and clay sewer laterals that crack, sag, or fill with roots. Mid-century neighborhoods have galvanized supply lines that rust shut from the inside, which is why water pressure fades over the years. Homes built between the late 1970s and mid-1990s sometimes still have polybutylene supply pipe, which turns brittle and leaks at the fittings. A high water table keeps the soil around buried lines saturated. A small crack lets in roots and silt quickly.

A typical case might be this: if you have a toilet replaced, you find that the floor drain makes a gurgling sound and then, following a heavy rain, the tub on the first floor overflows. A camera examination reveals pine roots in a clay pipe and an offset joint beneath the front yard. The roots are cleared by jetting, but since the offset will cause them to return again, we discuss with you the possibility of a spot repair or a full replacement and show you the footage so that you can decide for yourself.

Plumbing in newer neighborhoods fails differently. Homes in Nexton and on Daniel Island rarely have cracked clay pipes, but they do have builder-grade faucets, fill valves that stick, and water heaters installed in tight closets with little room to service them. Those calls run shorter, and the fix is usually a part. Whatever the age of your home, we start by finding which of those two situations you're in.
Your water utility publishes hardness in its annual water quality report. Check that number before you buy any equipment. Hardness depends on your water source, and homes on well water often test differently than homes on city water.

We test at your tap for hardness, chlorine, iron, and sediment. You pay only for treatment that solves a problem in your home. White scale on a shower head and crust inside a water heater point to hardness. Orange staining points to iron. A chlorine smell or sediment in the faucet aerator calls for a filter. If your numbers come back low, we'll tell you a softener isn't worth installing.

Here's a typical scenario: a family notices a white crust on every faucet and spots on the dishwasher glasses, and assumes they need a softener. Our test shows the hardness is moderate, but the real problem is a rusted water heater anode rod throwing sediment into the lines. Replacing the rod and flushing the tank solves the spotting at a fraction of the effort of a whole-house system. Testing first keeps you from buying equipment that doesn't fix what's wrong.
Salt air and constant humidity wear on exposed metal faster near the water. Coastal homes feel it first. Brass hose bibs, galvanized fittings, water heater flue connections, and crawl-space copper corrode first, especially on Isle of Palms and Folly Beach, where salt reaches every exterior fitting. Humidity also makes cold supply lines sweat, and the drip lands on subfloors and insulation where it gets mistaken for a leak.

We look for green or white crust on fittings, pitting on copper, and rust streaks under a water heater. Stainless braided supply lines, dezincification-resistant brass, and PVC drain lines outside hold up better than bare steel or standard brass. Insulating the cold lines in a crawl space stops most of the sweating.

A real-world example is a beach house that sits empty for weeks. Humidity fills the space, a toilet supply line corrodes at the stop valve, and the first sign is a soft spot in the bathroom floor. We replace the valve and line with corrosion-resistant parts and add a water shutoff routine for when the house is vacant, such as closing the main before a long stay away. Second homes and rentals along the coast benefit most from those small steps.
Hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30. The calls usually involve water going the wrong way. Heavy rain overloads sewer lines and drains, which pushes water up through floor drains, tubs, and low toilets. Tidal flooding adds water to the system faster than low-lying areas, such as parts of James Island and the downtown peninsula, can drain it. A backwater valve on the sewer line keeps that flow out of the house, and we'll tell you whether one fits your home.

Before a storm, you'll want to confirm your cleanout cap is tight, clear the yard drains, and locate your main shutoff. After a storm, hold off on running water if sewage has entered the house until we've checked the line. We also inspect any water heater that sat in floodwater, since its burner and controls are unsafe to relight after submersion.

Some storm calls are quieter. A power outage shuts off sump pumps, and a day of rain refills a crawl space. A tree falls across the yard and shears a water service line, and you notice a wet patch growing in the grass. If you lose pressure after a storm or spot new water in the yard, close your main shutoff and call us, and we'll locate the break before it undermines the soil under your slab or walkway.
Trenchless repair fixes a sewer line through small access holes, and the long open trench never happens. Your yard, driveway, and trees stay in place. We start with a camera inspection to map the break and measure the pipe. Then we either line the old pipe with a resin liner or pull a new pipe through the old path while breaking it apart, which is called pipe bursting.

Older neighborhoods put the sewer lateral under a brick walkway, a patio, or the root zone of a live oak, and restoring any of those takes longer than the pipe work itself. Trenchless doesn't suit every failure. A fully collapsed line or a sagging section that holds water needs a spot excavation, and the camera tells us which one you're dealing with.

On a typical trenchless job, you'll hear what we found before we start. We clear the line, run the camera, and walk you through the footage. Then we mark the entry points, set up the liner or the bursting equipment, and finish with a second camera pass so you see the new pipe from end to end. The yard stays largely intact, and you're not looking at a trench running across the front lawn for a week.
We match the repair to the building. Heart pine floors, plaster-and-lath walls, and brick foundations don't tolerate big openings. We locate pipe with a camera and access panels first, then cut small and patch cleanly. Many downtown homes still carry cast iron drains and old galvanized supply lines, and we replace those in sections so you keep working fixtures while we go.

Homes inside the Old and Historic District answer to the city's Board of Architectural Review for anything visible from the street. We flag exterior vents, tankless exhaust terminations, and equipment pads early, before the install. If your home is older than 1940, tell us when you call, and we'll bring transition couplings for joining cast iron to PVC on the first visit.

A typical historic house alteration is the addition of a bathroom on the third floor many years after the house was constructed. The drain goes through an existing chase; the vent was always too small, and the bathroom makes gurgling noises every time someone takes a shower in the downstairs bathroom. By opening one access point, we fix the vent and reroute the most problematic section, thus keeping the plaster throughout the rest of the wall undisturbed. This method preserves the original finishes while at the same time bringing the work up to code.
Where the water shows up tells you what failed. Water around the base after a flush usually means a failed wax ring or a cracked closet flange, the fitting that joins the toilet to the drain. A tank that drips from the bottom bolts points to worn tank-to-bowl gaskets, and a supply line leak shows up at the wall valve or the connection under the tank. A toilet that refills every few minutes on its own is leaking inside, past the flapper.

To confirm, put a few drops of food coloring in the tank, wait 15 minutes without flushing, and look for color in the bowl. If the base is wet or the floor feels soft, stop using the toilet and call us, because a rotted subfloor is far easier to fix before it spreads. We pull the toilet, check the flange for cracks and a good seat height, replace the wax ring, and set the toilet level.

Flange height trips up more toilet installs than you'd expect. After a floor gets new tile, the flange often sits below the finished surface. The wax ring won't seal, and the toilet weeps at the base. A flange extender fixes that without ripping up the floor. If the toilet rocks, we also shim and caulk it so the seal isn't stressed every time someone sits down, and we confirm the bowl fills and flushes cleanly before we leave.
A clog that keeps coming back means the cause sits deeper in your drain lines. It's rarely just because of the clog itself. For example, kitchen lines can clog from grease buildup over time that cools and hardens on the pipe wall, bathroom lines from hair and soap scum, and main lines from tree roots or wipes labeled "flushable" that never break down. A snake punches a hole through the blockage, but it leaves the buildup on the walls, and the hole closes again in a few weeks.

It's why we perform a drain or sewer camera inspection first, so we see what's in the pipe, what's causing it, and we pick the right tool to fix it. HydroScrub® jetting scours the walls with high-pressure water and clears grease and scale a snake leaves behind. If the camera shows a crack, a sag, or an offset joint, we say so and quote the repair. Many homeowners in older neighborhoods call us about the same drain two or three times before they learn the pipe itself is failing, and one camera pass usually settles it.
Repiping makes sense when leaks keep appearing in different spots on the same supply line, or when the pipe material itself is known to fail. Three or four pinhole leaks in copper within a couple of years, galvanized lines that deliver rusty water and weak pressure, and polybutylene pipe from that same era are the usual reasons. Patching one spot at a time costs less in the moment and more over the following years, with a wet wall each time.

During a repiping service, your Charleston plumbers will replace the old lines with new material like PEX, which flexes, resists corrosion, and runs with fewer fittings. That leaves fewer places to leak. We plan the route to keep wall openings small, protect your floors, and restore water the same day when the layout allows. Before we commit to a repipe, we test your pressure and check which lines are failing, because some homes only need a section replaced.
We handle far more than drains and leaks. Most weeks we also do water heater installation, including tankless water heaters, water line services, plumbing repair and pipe replacement for failing supply lines, and garbage disposal repair. We install water filters, softeners, and sump pumps, repair gas lines, and work on irrigation systems.

A tankless unit needs a gas line and venting sized for it, so we check both before we recommend one. For the full range of plumbing services Charleston, SC homes and businesses need, tell us what you're dealing with, and we'll point you to the right fix.
Tell us what you're seeing. We'll book the first window that works, including nights and weekends. When you need a plumber in Charleston, SC neighborhoods at an odd hour, our dispatchers are available around the clock to provide great customer service. Contact us today, and we'll confirm your time and send a plumber who has the right parts for the job. From backed-up sewers to broken pipes, our specialized knowledge and service experience have you covered.

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