A catch basin is an underground masonry box or “basin” that acts as the primary part of many landscape drainage systems. This concrete box is set into the ground at a low point on the property.
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The plumbing systems of any home encompass elements that do the important jobs of conducting household water and waste. Systems include nearly any appliance or utility that concerns water and in some cases, other liquids:
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We tend not to think often about the drainage systems of a house since their workings are mostly unseen, but they remain essential to the good functionality of nearly everything else inside and outside the house. Failing or ineffective drainage can cause everything from minor irritation and annoyance to major expense and repair.
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Residential drainage systems often feature outdoor catch basins and/or dry wells, so a solid understanding of what they are and the jobs they do can be beneficial.
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It is not unreasonable to expect a mostly carefree drainage system, but it requires a commitment to and investment in proper installation, maintenance, and service. A thorough knowledge of the system in place, along with regularly scheduled checks and maintenance, will achieve a smooth-running system and prevent failure as well as the need for repair.
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While it is public systems that seem to be better understood, private water, waste, and drainage systems contribute to the overall water picture and should also be understood and attended to. Knowing the different uses for a catch basin vs. dry well serves as a benefit to nearly anyone since both utilities exist in a number of residential conditions and can provide solutions to a number of drainage issues.
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They exist in both rural and urban settings within environments that may be challenging due to steep, sloping or lowland terrain and soils that are rocky, dry, saturated or mineral-heavy.
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Though they are different utilities, nearly all kinds of catch basins and dry wells have at least five major things in common:
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Both convey water away from your property
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Both work by gravity
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Both typically have a grate and drainage components
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Both can alleviate a number of home headaches such as flooding and standing water
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Both involve a system of pipes to conduct water and a place to temporarily hold it.
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Depending on people’s preferences or current situation, either kind of drainage aid can be used to catch and process water that runs off the roof, driveway, patio, porch, deck or lawn, as well as used water from the household such as from laundry, dishwashing, bathing and septic water from which solids have been filtered.
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The main difference between the two kinds of drainage utility is that by definition, a catch basin has a water-tight underground container while a dry well is normally a permeable hole in the ground. This article answers some commonly asked questions about catch basins and dry wells.
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What Is a Residential Catch Basin?
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Generally, a catch basin is a drainage system designed to carry water away from your home and perhaps direct it across the property before it runs to a public storm-water system, dry well, local water body or into the ground. A catch basin can take many forms, but it’s common to see some kind of grate over an angled inlet, often with an in-ground concrete or plastic basin that catches the water. From there it may be pumped out and released elsewhere, routed via subsurface pipe to a release location or allowed to evaporate.
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Some utilities called a catch basin may have an open design, but most are enclosed containers underground. A catch basin is usually situated at a low point of the property and will have some type of drainage pipe or other conduit attached that slopes away from the basin itself.
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The catch basin might do any combination of functions such as catch, hold and filter the runoff water from the lawn, around the house, off surfaces and out of the gutters. You can find catch basins in homes and businesses that use both public and private water conveyance systems.
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In a residential setting, the catch basin might be a 12-foot by 12-foot square box sold at home improvement stores for about $51, or like its public-sector counterparts, it can be a much bigger structure made of concrete or lined concrete blocks. The price of a bigger catch basin would of course be more than the small, premade type, but the cost would depend on the structure’s size and the going rate of materials. Catch basins might also be made of reinforced concrete or polypropylene that has perforated sides and bottoms.
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The size, structure type and other specifications for a catch basin depend largely on what kind of water it will receive and how much of it. For example, the catch basin for a big parking lot would likely be made of concrete with a large metal grate and be located directly underneath the surface that drains to it. There are also cases where a water pump helps to redistribute the water in a catch basin, depending on what kind of water it holds and where it can be routed to from the basin or well.
Simply put, a dry well is used for the drainage of water from a property, but the water can be storm-water runoff from the roof and paved surfaces, septic-tank water from which the solids have been filtered or used water from the shower, laundry, dishwasher and sinks.
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Like a catch basin, a dry well might also collect rainwater runoff from gutters and other impervious surfaces around homes and businesses such as the driveway, patio and walkways, and other areas. Dry wells take many forms and can serve a variety of purposes in household drainage, and it’s possible to see them used in conjunction with a catch basin or to see more than one used on a single piece of property.
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Dry wells, which may also be called seepage pits or leaching pits, are typically dug somewhere near the lowest point of the home site and reinforced with rocks, stones, gravel, brick or concrete. It is normally an underground hole with some type of grate or covering over the top. Runoff water flows to and into the well, and then the soil in and around the hole absorbs and somewhat filters it.
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People sometimes mistakenly call a dry well that receives water from the septic system a cesspool, but a cesspool involves raw sewage whereas a dry well does not. You may hear this type of water referred to as the septic “effluent,” which may also include water from dishes, bathing and laundry.
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The water usually runs to the dry well through an underground pipe, but sometimes, it may flow over the grass to get to the well, which builds in another step of natural filtration. Once in the well, the water runs through the rocks, stones, gravel, brick or concrete, which provide filtration.
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If the system is not functioning properly and the water bypasses this natural filtration system, it will convey to nearby waterways unwanted particulate matter from the roof, driveway and other areas including water from the septic system. Wherever they are unintentionally or inadvertently deposited, those contaminants can then adversely affect plant and animal life, influence water-body temperatures and compromise soil health.
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Dry wells can be filled with gravel, concrete, rubble, stones, brick-and-mortar or another kind of rock that not only provides natural filtration but also reinforcement against collapse, and the hole is usually six to eight feet deep and four to ten feet square or round. The depth and diameter of the dry well depend on how much and what kind of water you want to convey, how often it will come, the percolation rate of the soil around it, the slope and several other factors.
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Still, many residents like the idea of having a dry well for certain parts of the plumbing system to augment an aging septic system or to alleviate flooding on the lawn or other outdoor areas. Some people don’t need much volume and want a simple, small pit filled with gravel or rock. Other homeowners want to be prepared for the worst and have a dry well that handles a large volume of water and can then slowly release it back to the earth and groundwater.
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Where and How Are Catch Basins and Dry Wells Used?
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A catch basin and/or a dry well may be used in many kinds of residential as well as public-sector settings on large and small scales. They are utilities that seek to convey, hold and distribute water in the most desirable way rather than let it sit in or flow to places it should not be, where it usually causes some kind of damage or other unwanted issues.
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Houses exist in all kinds of configurations and orientations that give their families challenging drainages, inc
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At- or sub-grade windows
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Basement or cellar
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The underside of decks and porches
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Gardens
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Garages
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Limited-capacity septic
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Remote plumbing fixture
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Slopes and hills
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You may find a catch basin or dry well in place to help the septic system leach field from which water drains. As these waste-disposal systems age and environmental conditions around them may change, they can develop problems in parts of the leach field or may just be old enough that their ability to process the water has diminished over time.
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It’s usually a good idea to consider the replacement of a system that for whatever reason cannot properly process the liquids from the septic system that drains to the leach field, but in some cases, a dry well can help manage excess septic system water.
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Either utility can also provide a means to take the dirty water from a plumbing fixture such as a sink or washing machine that is far from the main septic system. In some remote cases, it makes more sense to construct a separate drainage system than to try and route an underground line to the existing septic pipes.
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Many old and new-construction homes incorporate one or several dry wells or catch basins in order to encourage good drainage on the property. Both utilities can effectively address a range of different conditions, including a terrain that just doesn’t drain well and might have patchy turf, moss or saturated areas.
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How Do I Know If I Need a Residential Dry Well or Catch Basin?
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You and any other homeowner or resident know their property better than anyone else, and there are some signs that may indicate you need supplemental or improved drainage:
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Is there standing water in your yard or near your property regularly?
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Do you have concrete, steel or other impermeable materials edging the yard?
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Does the grass stay saturated?
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Are parts of the lawn dead?
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Are there foul odors in certain spots?
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Do you see excess insects, mosquitoes in particular?
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Is the terrain of your yard or neighborhood sloped?
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Does water accumulate in the basement or garage or other areas after a heavy rain?
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Is there any mold or mildew on the interior or exterior of your home?
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The presence of any of these conditions can be helped and often solved with a correctly sized catch basin and/or dry well. Any of the issues caused by poor drainage can be annoying, and many are even concerning since water can damage property.
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What Can Go Wrong With a Catch Basin?
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The most common problem with catch basins is that debris accumulates on or in them over time, which slows or stops drainage, produces bad smells, causes flooding and might incur costly repairs if the clog causes some kind of failure or backup.
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One way to prevent unwanted scenarios and catch-basin repairs is to clean the catch-basin grate regularly and to check it after heavy rains. Most people prefer to have this done for them, and professional, licensed plumbers like we have at Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse can help to locate and assess your catch basin, which then gives you the information you need to set a catch-basin maintenance schedule.
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To some extent, immediate environmental conditions affect the condition of a catch basin. For example, you should consider:
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Size of the household using it
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The terrain in which it sits
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What kind of soil is around it
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Amount of rain a place gets annually
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These are all factors that matter as you make catch-basic maintenance decisions. It also helps to consult a professional to make sure the basin is properly sized and installed as well as functioning properly.
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Some parts of a catch basin, mainly the underground pipes and water receptacle, are unseen but can be assessed for proper performance both by above-ground observation, evaluation of system performance, and by subsurface inspection using a tiny camera, the plumbing video camera. Cracks, leaks, clogs and crumbling concrete can send water to places you don’t want it and create problems in other areas, which makes regular maintenance and service not just a measure for peace of mind, but also for proactive problem prevention.
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What Can Go Wrong With a Dry Well?
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Many problems can occur with a dry well depending on the conditions, but some of the common ones that may cause dry-well repair are listed here:
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Like in the catch basin, a buildup of leaves, sediment and other assorted materials inhibit or prevent the function of a dry well, and that is when the bigger headaches can come in the form of flooding, damage, standing water, foul smells and even dangerous bacteria.
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One of the common problems with dry wells is they are undersized for the job. Dry wells are typically designed for a minimum-type rain event or the low end of average conditions, so it is easy for a sustained, soaking rainfall to overwhelm small systems, much less a huge storm. It’s also not unusual for homeowners to add impervious surface to a property and not realize it adds water volume to the drainage that the original dry well may not be designed to handle.
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Ideally, all dry wells and catch basins should be designed to withstand the worst storm or flooding anyone has ever seen outside of catastrophe conditions, but realistically, most are not designed to that standard because of economics. The sizing of the structure matters, and if a well or basin continually performs below your expectations, it is probably too small for the property conditions.
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If the place you live has a high water table or gets a lot of rain, the water can back up when a dry well is undersized or the drainage has become inhibited. It is also easy to misgauge the amount of water a family uses, which is an important number when figuring out how big of a drainage utility you need.
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The kind of soil around the dry well and what the backfill dirt consists of make a big difference in how the utility will perform because if the drainage of either material is not sufficient, it hinders the water-leaching process. That may leave you with standing water, a breeding ground for bacteria, mosquitoes and foul smells.
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Under certain circumstances, pieces of accumulated debris could potentially make their way into other parts of the overall plumbing system. Another reason to clean a dry well and its parts regularly is that when enough sediment flows into the dry well, it will begin to leach into the surrounding soil and affect the well’s capacity to filter and drain the water. When built-up sediment within a dry well is left too long, it will eventually degrade its performance and cause failure, even if the utility was sized and installed correctly.
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Wall wells can collapse when they do not have the proper structural support or when that support shifts or is removed. There have been many cases where homeowners think it’s a good thing to remove the concrete, rock, brick gravel or stone in the well hole when in actuality, the well needs some of that material to help support the walls and prevent collapse. It can be a tricky balance to not only choose the right materials for effective well drainage but also the right quantity and arrangement of those materials.
Tips for Dry-Well Maintenance & Catch Basin Upkeep
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There are a number of measures that will help keep your dry well or catch basin functioning properly:
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Keep it clean: While a well-functioning dry well will catch all the runoff properly, the water will always bring dirt, asphalt particles, vegetation and other assorted materials with it. One key to good function is to clean out the dry well or catch basin periodically and check and clean the grate often, like after every big rain and almost daily when leaves are falling. How often you need to have it cleaned depends on how fast debris accumulates, which to some extent depends on each individual property and its terrain.
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Usually, an annual or semi-annual inspection and maintenance plan is sufficient for average situations.
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Most people prefer to have a professional perform the cleaning task. Nobody enjoys pulling out the mystery wads of debris that are impeding drainage, and a licensed plumber has the expertise to make sure the dry well’s structure and parts are in good condition and the proper tools. Sometimes the walls of the well can get so gunky that thorough draining and cleaning is needed before correct drainage can resume.
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A good, general maintenance practice that everyone can do themselves is to keep any visible parts of the system such as the trap and grate free of debris, especially leaves in the fall. Leaves can effectively cover the entire surface of the utility and cause the water to fully bypass the grate or cover and then flow to places it should not.
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Tend to the pump: Your dry-well setup may include an existing pump that has malfunctioned, or you may have to use a pump to remove water in order to find and fix problems. Especially since pumps and their installation can cost as much as $2,500, people like to consult a professional to get the job done right.
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Affix filtration: The drainage and flow utilities cannot function properly when the grates become clogged or the debris and sediment build up to the point of flowing along with the water. The point is to catch those things and prevent them from traveling to the municipal system or a nearby water body and from backing up into parts of your system. In cases where a dry well will manage used water from laundry facilities, a lint filter can be installed to keep material from entering and building up on the well interior.
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Take preventative measures: The City of Syracuse, for example, warns people not to dispose of fat, oil or grease, or fog, down the drain or through any drainage system since it will cause system clogs. People are advised to remove as much of the materials from dishes as possible and then throw it in the trash before washing or running dishes through the dishwasher.
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The “fogs” come in the form of many things we don’t typically think of as direct forms of fat, oil or grease, such as butter, gravy, shortening, meat scraps in the disposal, salad dressing, pastry and fried foods. The city-states that just one teaspoon of fat kept out of one drain each day prevents a total of 12 pounds of fat, oil or grease per year from running to and through both public and private systems, where they cause clogs and do damage.
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Even systems with good installation and function can be degraded over time with the fog, as well as soap scum, residuals from fabric softener and detergents, laundry lint and particles from the roof and patio. These materials are a little less obvious than leaves and vegetation, but they can be equally as harmful if allowed to accumulate. These facts support the logic of regular inspection and cleaning of dry wells, catch basins and septic systems.
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Clean gutters: The more leaves, sticks, dirt, asphalt particles and other debris you can keep out of the gutters, the less that material will flow to the dry well or catch basin. You can also use gutter guards or screens to keep waste out of the water that flows to the catch basin or dry well.
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Good maintenance will prevent you from having a costly repair bill that can potentially involve water pumps, excavation and new mortar or concrete. The cost of an annual or semi-annual professional inspection is small compared to what any one of the bigger projects or major services could cost, such as a catch-basin replacement.
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Residential Dry-Well Installation & Repair
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It’s pretty common for people to endeavor all kinds of do-it-yourself projects around their homes, sometimes to save money and sometimes because they just enjoy the improvement to their standard of living. However, the drainage around a house such as a catch basin or dry well is truly complex, and usually professional help is advised if not required to complete the tasks involved.
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Dry-well replacement can cost in the range of $1,000 to $3,000. It is something to get right because even a slight imperfection in the slope of the pipe or an incorrect fitting can make the dry well lose effectiveness. An average homeowner might not know that a catch-basin outlet needs a minimum of a three-inch-diameter pipe as well as a down-facing elbow or T-joint to discourage clogging.
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Not everyone will realize the well’s location relative to the water table will affect its performance and can mean the difference between it back up or not. The system should be correctly sized to handle large volumes of water, and the choices of piping material will usually be corrugated or smooth. While smooth usually costs a bit more, it reduces the chance corrugated that debris will stick, cause a blockage and prevent the water from flowing as it should.
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Proper installation can also be a matter of law as neighbors, municipalities, counties and states grow increasingly more focused on clean-water legislation under the federal Clean Water Act. It is common for cities, villages and towns to have laws or be considering laws that mandate inspections of catch basins, dry wells and other private utilities, which all contribute to the overall drainage in an area.
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Where the water comes out and what it contains is a matter of great importance, and people can be held responsible and penalized for a non-conformant system that negatively affects groundwater, water bodies, neighboring properties or public systems. Most good guidelines and now ordinances aim to ensure that the water of a dry well or catch basin is routed and released correctly and that the proper-sized pipe is used to connect a catch basin or dry well to the various things draining to it.
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The law often requires certain clearances, components, and specifications for various drainage systems, and the person installing should be aware of the soil absorption rates, the strength of various materials used, and how much capacity is needed to accommodate the characteristics of a property.
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Residential Catch-Basin Installation & Repair
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Depending on what goes wrong with a catch basin or the conditions under which one is installed, installation or rebuilding costs might range from $2,500 to $5,000. Catch basins suffer from many of the same problems as dry wells do, including incorrect installation and generally being undersized for the job. The constant nature of the freeze-thaw process can also cause damage to the concrete parts of your catch-basin system and then allow water to percolate, flow and otherwise escape.
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Once the concrete or asphalt materials sustain some kind of damage, they must be repaired or removed and replaced in order for the basin to function correctly. The extent of repairs depends entirely on each individual situation, but they normally require professional expertise for a number of tasks:
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Saw or cut away concrete
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Remove the entire basin frame and grate
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Take out part of the frame
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Mix and apply repair mortar
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Mix and apply sealant mortar
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Seal any saw cuts with rubberized, moisture-proof material
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Installing or repairing a catch basin also requires many of the same trench-digging and pipe-attachment tasks as a dry well, which involve knowledge of the slope, soil, system capacity and water characteristics, at a minimum.
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French Drains as a Complement
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As you seek to install, repair, service or maintain the drainage utilities around your home, you may encounter the term French drain used either correctly or incorrectly. While some people refer to it as the basement dewatering system or interior foundation-drainage system, a French drain is the outdoor, buried drain line that carries water away from the home. It often runs to a dry well or seepage pit located about 15 feet or more from the building.
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Where the Water Flows
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Dry wells and catch basins alike can be a help to the surrounding environment if they’re installed correctly and work right but can be a detriment if they clog or malfunction. It seems so natural to let water flow to where it will, but the various utilities are there to aid nature in filtering out some of the harmful elements that flow in and to water, including:
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Animal waste
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Human waste
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Garbage
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Various chemicals
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Soil and fine particulate matter
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Plant fertilizer
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Weed killer
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The laws and other regulations in place to mandate clean water not only aim to protect water but also to spread awareness about how clean water and responsible drainage practices are up to each individual who owns some kind of property. The onus is on the landowner to correctly install and then maintain drainage systems including catch basins, dry wells and septic systems. Different government entities regularly test all forms of water including coastal areas, lakes, rivers, groundwater and water tables and aquifers.
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When one of them shows distress such as pollution, increased temperature or dead fish, it usually launches an investigation to find the source of the problem, and anyone contributing to it can be subject to fines, penalties and repair or restoration measures. From big chunks of debris to small, unseen chemicals, the concern for clean water comes through local agencies directly from the Environmental Protection Agency.
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Federal Suggestions Relate
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One of the EPA’s charges is to study and research how best to distribute the water society uses, ultimately without any harm to the supply or environment. The agency lists ways to prevent debris and the garbage that blows around from entering storm and sewer drains. Among these tips is using catch basins with accessories such as hoods, screens and fabric inserts.
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A curb hood can prevent excess debris from entering the storm drain. A screen installed inside the catch basin can also prevent trash from entering and accumulating in the system, including outlet pipes or other features. Those with a mesh size of at least 5 millimeters are considered by EPA to be “full-capture devices.”
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The EPA also lists catch-basin inserts as a best-practice way to manage stormwater and capture trash. It can be a fairly easy and inexpensive way to augment an older system or set up a new one since it is usually placed where the basin discharges and features a steel-frame insert with durable fabric-filter material that can handle high flows and debris load.
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As the analysis of water bodies and supply continues, many are found to have concerns for one or several reasons, and that ratchets up the need for individual conscientiousness about water, drainage and waste. The EPA’s sections on trash and floatables state, \"Over 200 individual water-body reaches...have been listed for trash, debris or floatables since 1996.\" Those water-body reaches include Alaska, California, Connecticut, the District of Columbia, Hawaii, Maryland and New York, and the “listed” status indicates that they are compromised in some way.
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When a water body or supply is found to be compromised, the responsible agencies will take action to correct the problems, which often includes legislation, public-awareness campaigns and further water analysis. One measure seen more in urban areas is where neighborhoods adopt a section of storm sewers, catch basins or retention ponds in order to better maintain them.
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Consult with Licensed NY Plumbers at Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse
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Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse provides the full range of expertise and skills needed to assess, install, repair and maintain any kind of dry well or catch-basin system. Our specialists are licensed plumbers certified by Onondaga County for plumbing leak detection or any plumbing-related project in a residential or commercial setting, and we are familiar with the applicable regulations in the Syracuse-Oneida local area as well as state and other rules.
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Whether you suspect a problem, already have an issue or want to know how you can better maintain any part of your water usage or drainage system around the house, call Mr. Rooter to have a professional visit your home and perform a plumbing check-up at no charge. Ultimately, better maintenance and upkeep saves you money over time since it prolongs the life of your system and helps prevent breakdown.
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This general check of the system provides you with an assessment of its performance and will help discover any issues or problems. Almost always, it’s best to find and fix problems sooner rather than later, since they can worsen over time and incur even costlier repairs. Even if you have no concerns about your dry well or catch basin, an initial inspection of it provides a performance baseline you can use to assess its future performance.
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{
"custom_dt_modified":"2025-04-29T09:17:24Z",
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"custom_s_opus_version":"2",
"custom_s_heading":"Why You Should Never Flush Your Fish Down the Toilet",
"custom_s_local_dba":"greater-syracuse",
"custom_dt_created":"2021-07-01T00:00:00Z",
"custom_s_category":"plumbing",
"custom_ss_category":["plumbing"],
"custom_s_article_summary_Image_url":"",
"custom_t_content_summary_Desc":"For many families with young kids, a goldfish makes a great starter pet. Sadly, most are not long-lived, and there will come a tim",
"custom_t_content_summary_Image_url_alt":"",
"custom_t_heading":"Why You Should Never Flush Your Fish Down the Toilet",
"custom_t_content":"
For many families with young kids, a goldfish makes a great starter pet. Sadly, most are not long-lived, and there will come a time when you and your children have to bid a final goodbye to your little, watery friend. Because of their size, the age-old disposal method is a gentle flush down the toilet. As it turns out, though, flushing your pet is not a good idea.
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Why You Shouldn't Flush Your Dead Fish
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Alive or dead, you should never flush a fish. Here are a few reasons why.
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1. It Is Unsanitary
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It may be carrying disease or parasites that caused it to die in the first place. Unless you deep clean every inch of your bathroom, there could be traces of these germs and bacteria where its remains have touched that could lead to future issues.
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2. It Could Damage Your Septic System or Plumbing
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While your septic system and plumbing are designed for disposing of undesirable materials, dead fish are not on the list of flushable items. Septic systems are only meant to handle human waste, water and toilet paper. Plus, if it gets stuck in the pipes, a blockage or infestation could occur.
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If your water or sewage companies find out that you are responsible for damage due to flushing a dead fish, you could be held solely responsible. It is also unlikely that your insurance would help cover the costs.
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3. The Pet Could Still Be Alive
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Even if your fish looks dead, it may actually be alive. What happens if you flush a live goldfish? It is likely to suffer due to all the noxious wastes it encounters.
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4. It Can Pass on Diseases to Local Wildlife
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Whether dead or alive, diseases or parasites could be transmitted to local fish species. There is also a possibility that those diseases can be carried in the water to the local environment and wildlife.
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5. It Could Damage the Local Habitat
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Fish that survive flushing can make their way to waterways and wreak havoc on the local habitat. They may compete with native species for food and resources, kill local fish and wildlife and destroy vegetation.
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Trust Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse for New York Plumbing Services
\n
If you have a blocked drain or a different plumbing issue, Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Syracuse is here for you. We can handle any pipe or septic system problem, no matter the cause. Contact us today to learn more.
\r\n"},
{
"custom_dt_modified":"2025-04-29T08:26:19Z",
"custom_s_local_url":"/greater-syracuse/about-us/blog/mobile-home-plumbing-problems/",
"custom_s_opus_version":"2",
"custom_s_heading":"Mobile Home Plumbing Problems",
"custom_s_local_dba":"greater-syracuse",
"custom_dt_created":"2019-04-08T00:00:00Z",
"custom_s_category":"plumbing",
"custom_ss_category":["plumbing"],
"custom_s_article_summary_Image_url":"/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blog-us-greater-syracuse-mobile-home-plumbing-problems.webp",
"custom_t_content_summary_Desc":"Plumbing problems plague mobile home residents just as much as they do site-built homeowners. However, because the systems are dif",
"custom_t_content_summary_Image_url_alt":"mobile home plumbing",
"custom_t_heading":"Mobile Home Plumbing Problems",
"custom_t_content":"
\n
Plumbing problems plague mobile home residents just as much as they do site-built homeowners. However, because the systems are different in so many ways, you will need special knowledge and skills to understand and work with your manufactured home's plumbing.
\n
Mobile homes do not always encounter the same plumbing issues as site-built homes. If something goes wrong, you need to know the necessary information such as where to turn off the water to mitigate damage until a plumber can arrive. Understanding the basics could save your home and possessions from water damage.
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You can do some minor plumbing repairs yourself, such as preparing your plumbing for winter or using a plunger. Knowledge of how your home's plumbing works will make it easier for you to determine when to do minor chores yourself and when to call a professional. If you feel concerned about a plumbing problem, always consult a Mr. Rooter expert for service.
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Basic Elements of a Plumbing System
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Plumbing systems consist of fixtures and incoming or outgoing pipelines. There are numerous piping materials available. Old homes once used iron for piping. Today, due to the risks of wear and rusting, this material has fallen out of favor for cheaper, safer materials like copper, CPVC — chlorinated polyvinyl chloride — and PEX — cross-linked polyethylene.
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Fixtures are another essential element of your plumbing system. These are the parts you interact with daily. Faucets, toilets, showers, and washing machines are all plumbing components. Problems may occur with the fixtures or with the lines. Understanding both will help you identify the source of the problem when something goes wrong.
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The plumbing system in every home or business starts with fresh water lines to bring in clean water. Some of this water goes to the water heater for warming. The hot water travels through its lines to come out of the hot water faucets on your sinks and appliances. Cold water continues through the supply pipes to service your washer, toilet, bathtub, shower, and taps.
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After you use the water from any fixture, the rest goes down the drain. All the drain lines connect to the major waste line that leaves your home. A blockage in the home's waste line could cause a backup of wastewater into the house. This job requires expert repairs to clear the clog safely. Due to the design of a mobile home's plumbing system, removing a clog could be more difficult if it is in the main exit line from the home. A professional plumber will know how to deal with the situation.
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To ensure drain lines work correctly, they must have ventilation. Think about trying to pour water out of a container with only one opening. It does not flow as quickly because as water leaves, air must come into the container to take its place. The same principle holds with your drain lines. Air needs to enter the system to help wastewater move out of your home as fast and smoothly as possible. The location of the ventilation for site-built and mobile homes is one of the significant differences in the plumbing systems for these constructions. Knowing the site of the ventilation spots can help you see if a blockage is restricting drain flow.
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The incoming and outgoing water lines, vents, and fixtures in your home create the entire plumbing system. However, the specific design is not the same in a mobile home compared to a site-built home. Discover the differences to know how your mobile home has a unique plumbing system.
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Mobile Home Plumbing vs. Built Home Plumbing
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If you live in a manufactured home, you may not initially be aware of the plumbing differences from a site-built home. Because mobile homes are not permanent structures, the plumbing entering and leaving the house has a distinctive design. Everything from the materials to the location of the pipes and drain venting has different orientations compared to site-built homes.
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Piping Materials
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The materials in manufactured homes often are innovative in the plumbing world. Homebuilders like to use new plumbing in mobile homes to see how they function. For example, builders first used PEX piping in manufactured homes before it became common in site-built home designs. Today, this pipe material is a standard in the industry.
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Site-built homes typically use copper for incoming water, but in manufactured homes, this is not the standard. CPVC and PEX are more common in mobile home supply lines. Both work for hot and cold water lines. These materials may last as long as the incoming copper lines used for site-built homes. The plastic pipes are cheaper and easier to install. PVC — polyvinyl chloride — pipe may be used for drain lines and some supply lines.
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Some manufactured homes built between the 1970s and 1990s had polybutylene pipe installed. The bleach used to sanitize the water supply would cause the material to wear out and leak. This type of pipe is no longer available. If you have it in your mobile home, consider repiping to replace it. During negotiations, request the owner to repipe the house at their expense before you move in.
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Drain pipes carry waste water out of your home. Materials typically used for waste lines include PVC, chromed brass or cast iron. PVC is likely to be the chosen material because experts who know how to plumb a mobile home find it easier to install. It also costs less than metal pipes. These materials are not very different from those used in site-built homes, though, making drain pipes a common factor between the two.
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Location of Pipes
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Piping locations differ between mobile and site-built homes. Site-built homes have supply lines that run through the walls. In mobile homes, though, the incoming water lines run under your house. This pipe orientation can pose a problem in the winter from freezing pipes. Depending on the layout of your home, the pipes may run next to your subfloor heating ducts or along the edge of the floor. Your water heater's location will also determine how the pipes come into your home.
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Venting of Drain Pipes
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Vents for the drain lines also differ between site-built and mobile homes. While vent stacks to admit air into the system are required by law, cleanouts are not. A mobile home drain system diagram may have vents visible on the roof. More often, though, mobile homes have vents at each fixture. For instance, a sink may have a vent under the counter.
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Overflows and cleanouts are not included on the fixtures or outside the home of manufactured homes. Because these openings are not features of mobile homes, clearing out blocked drains becomes slightly more difficult. The difficulty adds to the reasons to consult with a professional if you have plumbing problems in your manufactured home.
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Plumbing Pipe Materials Used in Manufactured Homes
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Since the plumbing materials in manufactured homes differ from those in site-built homes, you may not be able to use the same resources for DIY solutions. Plumbing materials for manufactured homes tend to cost less and be easier to work with. Those attributes do not give you a pass to attempt every plumbing repair yourself. Educating yourself on the materials can help you know what problems your home is likely to face based on the materials in the supply and drain lines.
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PVC
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Polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC, is a traditional piping material that still may be part of your vents and drain lines. In repaired lines, you may see patches of PVC replacing worn sections of drain lines. PVC plastic is easy to cut and find fittings for. It also is lightweight, which makes working with it more manageable. It replaces an older, black plastic known as ABS — acrylonitrile butadiene styrene — which may still be part of older constructions. ABS fell out of use when builders discovered it broke down in sunlight.
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CPVC
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Do not confuse standard PVC with chlorinated polyvinyl chloride, or CPVC. You cannot interchange the two types. CPVC has been specially treated for use with both hot and cold supply lines. Today, CPVC is a favorite cold and hot water line piping. Plumbers installing these pipes usually glue the parts together for a permanent fit. Occasionally, they may use grip fittings for future changes. Another reason builders use CPVC is its low price to purchase and install. The low cost makes CPVC ideal piping for supply lines in manufactured homes where the value of all components becomes a prime deciding factor.
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PEX
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PEX, or cross-linked polyethylene, consists of colored tubing that bends easily. This durable, long-lasting material was tested in mobile homes and is not in all types of buildings. PEX also has the unique ability to bend to 90-degree turns, which rigid pipes cannot do. Thanks to its flexible design, this material requires fewer connections, which creates fewer potential leak sites. Though the material is flexible, PEX is resistant to temperatures ranging from 32 degrees Fahrenheit to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. With blue, red, and white colors, use blue for cold water and red for hot to make identifying plumbing lines faster.
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PEX is still a relatively new plumbing option, but it costs less than many other supply line materials. Compared to the cost of copper pipes, which are not common in mobile homes, PEX costs one-third less. Because plumbers can install PEX quickly and with fewer connections than CPVC, this material has become a favorite of both homeowners and plumbing professionals.
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Mobile Home Plumbing Checklist
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Common Water Line Problems in Mobile Homes
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Your water lines are not immune to damage. Problems range from frozen to leaking pipes or dripping faucets. Depending on the type of issue, you may be able to wait until the next business day to call a plumber, or you might need emergency service. Burst pipes or water flowing into your home constitute emergencies for which you require a plumber to repair. Knowing what is wrong with your plumbing will make deciding when to call for help more straightforward.
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Frozen Pipes
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A common problem with mobile homes that many site-built dwellings do not have is frozen pipes. Because manufactured homes have pipes that run under the house, cold air can more easily freeze the water inside. An ice block inside one of your pipes builds pressure in the system until another portion of the supply line bursts. A burst pipe will quickly pour water into your home, causing damage to the structural components and your possessions. Shut off the water to your house before calling a plumber to fix the pipe.
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To keep your pipes from freezing, protect them from sub-freezing temperatures. Use heat tape to warm the pipes under your home during unusually cold winters. A thermostat on the tape will allow it to maintain a temperature warm enough to keep the water flowing without overheating. This tape lasts only three to five years, but you must keep it plugged in the entire time you use it. When selecting heat tape for your home, always choose a variety designed for the material your supply lines are made from.
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Leaking Pipes
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Leaking pipes can be visible or hidden. Water damage or mold may arise from an unseen leak in a mobile home sewer pipe. Because leaks can cause damage to other parts of your home than the plumbing, you need to fix the issue soon.
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The best part about mobile home plumbing is the layout of the pipes. Hidden leaking pipes tend to be those that run under the home. This location keeps water damage restricted to the floor around the pipe leak. In a site-built home with pipes in the walls, the water leak may cause damage to the immediate area and anywhere the water drips down.
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Mobile homes could develop leaks in pipe joints, which are more common in pipes with more joints. A cause of leaks in mobile home plumbing systems comes after the home reaches its final destination. Moving the house and the settling that occurs after an stress rigid pipes, resulting in leaks. Freezing can also cause holes in the supply lines.
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If you notice low pressure that you cannot immediately fix or see higher water bills than usual, suspect a leak in your system. A leak in your plumbing, whether hidden or not, needs expert repairs. Call a plumber to help you find and fix leaks in your pipes.
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Clogged Drains
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Drain clogs often happen from pouring inappropriate substances down the drain. For instance, you should never put grease down the kitchen sink because further down the line, it can cool and congeal to create a blockage. Hair in tub drains can do the same thing. Do not use chemical drain cleaners if you have a clogged drain. These chemicals can injure a plumber if you must call in a professional to repair the problem. If high-pressure water or plunging will not move the clog, call a plumber.
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Low Pressure
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Low water pressure could originate outside your home or at an individual fixture. For house-wide pressure problems, consult your neighbors to see if there is a local water issue. If the rest of your neighbors have adequate pressure and you don't, it is time to consult a plumber.
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For individual fixture problems, you may have a simple-to-fix issue with the aerator. Recheck the pressure after cleaning off the aerator. You may still need to call a plumber if your aerator became clogged from sediment in the lines. Deposits could indicate a bigger problem with your plumbing system a professional may need to address.
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Dripping Faucets
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Dripping faucets are one of the most annoying problems you can have in your home. Nothing will keep you up at night quite like a dripping faucet into a metal sink. You might need to replace a washer in your faucet to stop the drip. However, if your repair does not work, you could have a more significant issue and need an expert eye to identify and solve the problem.
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DIY Mobile Home Plumbing Tips
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While you should never attempt significant repairs of your home's plumbing, there are some chores most residents can easily do in a few minutes. These tasks are skills you should have regardless of where you live. If you cannot solve your plumbing problems with these minor fixes, you need to contact a plumber who will have the tools and knowledge to help you.
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Turning off the Water
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Whether you need to make a repair or have an emergency, you must know how to shut off your home's water supply. Look around your house for the water hose faucet. The larger valve next to the hose tap will control the water coming into your home. Turn it all the way to the right until you cannot twist it anymore. Check the water at a faucet inside your house to verify that you have successfully shut off the water. If you need to work on a single fixture, also turn the water control valve at the fixture into the horizontal position. Doing both prevents excessive pressure from the home's water from building at the closed source valve and leaking.
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Using a Plunger
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For toilet and drain clogs, use a plunger to safely dislodge the blockage. Knowing how to use a plunger can save you money because 90 percent of the time you have a toilet clog, a plunger will clear it. Remember to never use a plunger after you have used a chemical drain cleaner. You could cause severe burns on your skin if the drain cleaner comes back up while you are plunging the drain.
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Use a flange plunger for toilets and a cup plunger for tubs and sinks. The type of plunger does make a difference. Have both types on hand for all kinds of emergencies. Keep the plunger underwater and completely seal the drain with the base of the plunger. Do not flush the toilet or run water into the sink while plunging. With the plunger sealing the opening, push and pull the handle without breaking the seal for 20 seconds. Finally, pull out the plunger, and the drain should clear. If not, call a plumber.
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Wrapping Pipes in Winter
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Keep the pipes under your home warm during the winter with pipe heating tape. Read the directions on the tape for how to install it. Never put insulation around the taped pipes, because the tape could overheat and cause damage to the pipes. Also, remember to keep the pipe tape plugged in throughout the winter to keep it working. Your pipes will not get any benefits from pipes that have heater tape and are not getting power.
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If your home loses power during the winter, know how to put pipe insulation around the pipes. Unplug the heater tape so it will not come on under the insulation when power gets restored. Choose pipe insulation to wrap around the lines under your home, which are more susceptible to the cold. You can always have a plumber help you with this chore if necessary. Do not forget to remove the insulation when you have power restored and can plug in the pipe heater tape.
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Consult with Licensed NY Plumbers at Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse
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Do not let small trailer plumbing problems in your mobile home turn into a major headache. Plumbing issues will not correct themselves over time — they will only get worse. That is why you need to know whom to call if your plumbing has a problem.
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Our professional, licensed plumbers at Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse are here to help with whatever problems or concerns you have. We offer standard installations, repairs, and emergency services for all types of homes in the area. If you have an emergency in the middle of the night, such as a burst pipe or overflowing toilet, you do not have to wait to call us. We have 24/7 emergency plumbers available for your convenience.
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We also offer checkups at no charge. If you think you have a plumbing problem in your mobile home, call us at Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse to have a service professional come out to look at your system. If you need repairs, our licensed plumber who is certified by Onondaga County for plumbing, leak detection, or any plumbing-related project can come out to resolve the issue.
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Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse has a code of respect, integrity, and customer focus. We strive to apply these values to every job we do. Let us help you with your mobile home plumbing, whether you need us now or in the future.
\r\n"},
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"custom_t_content_summary_Desc":"A catch basin is an underground masonry box or “basin” that acts as the primary part of many landscape drainage systems. This concrete box is set into the ground at a low point on the property. ",
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What Is a Catch Basin?
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A catch basin is an underground masonry box or “basin” that acts as the primary part of many landscape drainage systems. This concrete box is set into the ground at a low point on the property. On top of the basin sits a grate whereby water runoff enters the basin. The drainage pipe slopes away from the building or home.
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What exactly does a catch basin do, though? In short, catch basins catch and drain debris to prevent downstream pipes from clogging and lawns from flooding. Catch basins are commonly found in many older homes and buildings. They serve a combination of purposes, including catching, holding and filtering runoff water from your lawn, around your home and from your gutters.
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Before water treatment facilities could treat water for contaminants like soap and sift out debris like stones, many homes and buildings had catch basins. With a catch basin, water contaminants float to the top of the basin water, while the debris settles at the bottom. Then, the downward-facing pipe's spout receives the underflow of uncontaminated water.
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Here is a more detailed explanation of how a catch basin works:
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Contaminated water enters: Water and solids enter the catch basin from above the ground through the grate.
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Debris settles to the bottom: Inside the basin, solids settle to the bottom and contaminants float to the top so uncontaminated water can drain out of the pipe.
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Clean water leaves: The pipe typically connects to the larger local plumbing system and directs the water to a sewage plant or stream.
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Catch basins designed for homes are commonly 1-foot by 1-foot boxes and are sold in home improvement stores. Those used by the public sector are usually made of concrete blocks and are much larger than residential catch basins. They can also be made of polypropylene, in which case they are perforated on the sides and the bottom.
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Is a Catch Basin the Same As a Storm Drain?
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The terms “catch basin” and “storm drain” are often used interchangeably because both options catch and redirect water runoff. However, they differ by purpose and the types of water runoff they handle.
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For example, a catch basin catches rainfall or garden and lawn water runoff and is a part of a residential landscape drainage system. On the other hand, a storm drain is located on the side of city roads to catch stormwater runoff and prevent road flooding.
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A storm drain is a kind of catch basin and a part of a greater municipal storm sewer system.
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Catch Basin Pros and Cons
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The benefits of catch basins include:
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They support drain systems. Catch basins serve as a pre-treatment stage in storm drains and sewer systems. Sediments and large debris found in rainwater are caught by and retained in the basin. They do not proceed into the storm drain or sewer system, which helps to keep the drainage system from overloading. If debris gets into the sewer system, it will lead to clogs and reduce the effectiveness of the drainage system. A catch basin can minimize drainage issues, which means less maintenance needs to be performed on the drainage systems, increasing their longevity. Of course, for a catch basin to be as effective as possible, it must be well maintained.
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They act as a landscape aid. Catch basins are particularly useful for homes that receive heavy rainfall and have poor drainage. A catch basin, if properly installed, can serve as a rainwater reservoir to avoid stagnating water. Standing rainwater can cause many problems, like soggy soil, mosquitos, bacteria growth and foul odors. A catch basin is an excellent preventive measure for these issues.
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They keep your basement from flooding. Poor-draining landscapes can cause problems inside the house, too — especially in your basement. Downspout water that doesn't drain away from the foundation can easily flood a basement. Ideally, your driveway should tilt away from your home to prevent flooding, too. If the home is in a region with heavy rainfall, this situation can be particularly hazardous. Over time, this water infiltrating the home can cause damage to many valuable things such as carpets, flooring and furniture. The best way to remedy this situation is by rerouting the downspout water using well-built catch basins, which are placed directly below the downspouts.
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It boosts your home's value. As a catch basin is a useful addition to your home, it increases its resale value.
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As is the case with most systems, catch basins sometimes experience issues, many of which you can avoid with proper maintenance. Common catch basin problems include:
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They can attract unwanted pests. As debris takes a long time to dry out and can become hot during the summer, it creates an environment that's ideal for mosquitoes and other insects to breed. If you are having a mosquito problem but are nowhere near standing water, the debris in your catch basin may be the culprit.
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They can cause sinkholes. If the pipes that lead to or from a catch basin collapse, a sinkhole can develop. The water that escapes can then erode the stone base that supports the asphalt, which may create a sinkhole by the basin. Although this seems like a serious situation, it can be fixed. Once you get a professional to repair the damaged catch basin, you can then reinforce the surrounding areas with concrete, which actually provides a better base than asphalt.
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The debris can be discharged during heavy rainstorms. Catch basins allow solids, debris and trash to settle out to the basin's bottom, which is below the outlet pipe where the water flows out. If there is a heavy rainstorm, the catch basin can get so overwhelmed that it no longer allows debris and trash to settle out. If the rate of water flow is particularly high, the debris and trash can quickly rise to the level of the outlet pipe, and as these pipes don't usually have any trash-screens or hoods, any material that is suspended in the water by the pipe can flow out of the basin. To reduce the chance of this occurring, use a hooded outlet cover, which helps to reduce pollutants like trash, floatables, sediment and free oils.
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Catch basins, even ones that are carefully designed, cannot remove pollutants as effectively as other stormwater treatment systems including sand filters, wet ponds or stormwater wetlands. They cannot remove soluble pollutants or fine particles, which include silt, clay, fine sand or colloids.
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When Do You Need a Catch Basin?
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When deciding whether or not your property would benefit from a catch basin, ask yourself the following questions:
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Do you regularly see standing water on or near your property?
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Does steel, concrete or any other impermeable material edge your yard?
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Does your grass remain saturated?
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Are parts of your lawn dead?
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Do certain parts of your yard smell bad?
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Do you notice an abnormally high number of insects, particularly mosquitos?
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Is your yard's terrain sloped?
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Does water pool in your garage or basement after a heavy rainstorm?
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Does your home's exterior or interior have mildew or mold?
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If you're experiencing any of the above problems, there is a good chance that the situation could be improved — and perhaps solved completely — by an appropriately sized catch basin.
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What Kind of Catch Basin Do I Need?
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The structure type, size and other specifications for your catch basin will largely depend on the type and amount of water that it will receive. For instance, a catch basin for a large parking lot would most likely need to be made of concrete and located directly below the surface that drains to it. In some cases, a water pump may be useful to redistribute the water in the basin, which will depend on the type of water that it holds.
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Catch Basin Vs. French Drain
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Like catch basin drains and storm drains, catch basins and French drains are similar in collecting excess water runoff. Because water follows the path of least resistance, these drain types feature piping strategically sloped downhill to funnel water away from your building or home and prevent flooding.
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However, unlike a catch basin, a French drain is an elongated trench with a perforated pipe beneath a few layers of gravel. Gravity tugs the water through the gravel and into the piping. Why gravel? Water drains through gravel much more efficiently than soil. Why perforated piping? Water can penetrate a French drain from above or beneath the ground due to the holes in the piping. A French drain is excellent for removing water from large patches of soggy ground due to excessive precipitation.
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A catch basin is a concrete basin embedded into the ground that is covered by a grate. Water runoff can only enter a catch basin from above the ground, and catch basins are ideal for redirecting a large volume of rain and stormwater runoff. If you have a concentrated, specific patch of ground that floods during heavy rainfall, a catch basin can help to redirect water runoff in those areas and effectively channel it into a draining system.
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How Many Catch Basins Do I Need?
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The number of catch basins that you'll need will depend on the peak flow rate of stormwater that the area experiences. Other things to consider are the slope of the property, the area of the impermeable surface and the average rainfall amounts in your region.
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For instance, a big parking lot in a rainy climate might need several catch basins. An engineer can determine the best design and location for the system.
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How to Maintain Your Catch Basin
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You must clean your catch basin periodically so it can continue to drain stormwater and trap sediment. By taking out sediment, debris and the pollutants associated with them, you will make the basin look better and reduce the pollutants and foul smells that will be entering the sewer system.
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To maintain the grates of your catch basin, do the following:
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Take out leaves and trash. This will reduce the risk of the grate clogging.
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Mark a message. If you live in an area that may be at risk environmentally, consider putting up a sign that says, \"No Dumping, Drains to Stream\" or something similar.
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As for maintaining the catch basin itself, keep in mind that the more frequently you clean it, the more pollutants you will remove. According to the EPA, you should clean out the basin if the solid is at least one third the depth from the bottom of the basin to the invert of the lowest pipe that goes into or out of the basin. You can do this yourself by lifting the grate up and removing the water with a bucket and the sediment with a shovel.
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You should dump the water into a sanitary sewer through a sink or shop drain. You can also dump it in a toilet or any other drain that is appropriate. As for the solids, let them dry out, then dispose of them properly. To decide which disposal method is best, consider the types of pollutants they contain and the activities that produced them.
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Catch basins used near chemical or hazardous waste storage, equipment maintenance or material handling sites may catch chemicals that are used in these types of activities. Solids removed from catch basins at industrial or commercial sites are typically not considered to be hazardous waste and therefore can be disposed of as solid waste. However, as you are the generator of this waste, make sure to find out if there are any regulations in your area that stipulate how you must dispose of your waste. Do not dispose of your waste on your or someone else's land.
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When maintaining your catch basin, make an effort to follow these safety precautions:
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Remove the grate with caution. It may be heavy and injure your back or, if you drop it, your feet.
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Don't leave an open grate unattended. While the grate is off, stay by it and make sure others don't walk near it.
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Don't enter the basin. Unless you have the proper training, never enter the basin.
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Don't expose your waste or chemical storage practices to rain or stormwater runoff.
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We also have a few general tips to help you with your maintenance:
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Regularly sweep your lot. By regularly cleaning the surrounding area, you'll reduce the need to clean your catch basin.
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Consider adding catch basin inserts. This will enhance the filtering ability of your catch basin.
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Make sure your outlet traps are in good condition. This means that you should replace or repair them if they're broken. If your catch basin doesn't have an outlet trap, install one — these components are an easy, cheaper way to remove any floatable pollutants that make it into the catch basin.
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Hire a Professional Plumber for All Your Catch Basin Needs
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Although removing debris from your catch basin may seem simple, it is often not a pleasant or easy job. Catch basins are usually quite deep, and scooping out the muck can be disgusting and sometimes dangerous as well. The best way to keep your catch basins clean is to hire a professional to handle the removal. Professionals have the appropriate tools for the job and know how to clean it in a way that ensures it won't back up quickly again.
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What's more — when a professional is removing the debris from your catch basin, they can also perform a speedy inspection to see whether a clog has occurred in the drain pipe itself. If they do find a clog, they can fix it right then so that they won't need to make a second trip. When people decide to do the cleaning themselves, they often still end up having to hire a professional because there's a clog in the pipe. By calling a professional, you can potentially save yourself hours of work and be sure that it's done right the first time.
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Need a Plumber in Syracuse, NY? Choose Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse
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If you live in or around Syracuse, N.Y., including the cities of Auburn, Liverpool, Port Byron or Baldwinsville, the company you want to clean and inspect your catch basins is Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse.
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Whether it's for your home or your business, you can count on our team of licensed plumbers to maintain your catch basin, french drain or whatever drainage system you happen to have. We arrive at your location on time and diagnose the problem quickly with advanced equipment. Once we've pinpointed the issue, we'll then explain all of your repair options and the charges associated with each.
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If you have an urgent problem, we also offer 24-hour emergency service. If your catch basin experiences a failure and your property is in danger of flooding, call us any time of the day, and we'll promptly send over a technician to resolve the problem before it causes serious damage.
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You can request an estimate or schedule a service by filling out our form or calling us.
\r\n"},
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"custom_t_heading":"What You Need to Know About Toilet Paper and Septic Tanks",
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If you have a septic tank as part of your home’s waste management system, you may be concerned about putting toilet paper in it. What effect does toilet paper have on your septic tank, and what should you do about it?
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The Truth About Toilet Paper and Septic Tanks
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The truth is toilet paper is designed to be flushed, and there is no evidence that your septic tanks will have any difficulty filtering out standard toilet paper. You may continue to buy your favorite toilet paper and flush it with impunity, provided you don’t try to flush too much all at once. However, if you are still concerned or skeptical that toilet paper cannot hurt your septic tank, there are a few steps you can take.
\n
Disintegrating Toilet Paper
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There are some brands of toilet paper that simply disintegrate upon contact with water. Just toss them in the bowl, and they are gone in seconds. Using this type of toilet paper will give you nothing to worry about when it comes to your septic tank.
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Judicious Use of Paper
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Instead of wadding up a big ball of toilet paper every time you use the bathroom, just tear off five or six sheets of paper, fold them over once and use them that way to make sure you’re not sending any large chunks of paper down at once.
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Throw the Toilet Paper Away
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There’s no law that says you have to flush your toilet paper down the toilet. You can get a dedicated trash bin with a cover designed specifically for toilet paper and instruct all household members to throw all the toilet paper in that bin.
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Recycled Toilet Paper
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Some people prefer to use recycled toilet paper because they think it will be better for the tank than some of the soft, fluffy brand-name toilet papers. There is no actual evidence of this. However, it certainly can’t hurt the septic tank, and it’s better for the environment, so you might as well use it.
\n
Contact Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse for New York Plumbing Services
\n
Since you obviously care about your septic tank, you want to make sure it and all your plumbing is in good working order at all times. If you’re in the greater Syracuse area, Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Syracuse can help. We offer a no-charge plumbing checkup, meaning we’ll check your pipes for free and make sure everything is in good shape. If it’s not, we can tell you what we need to do to fix it and give you a fair estimate so you know what to expect. To get started, just give us a call now or contact us online.
\r\n"},
{
"custom_dt_modified":"2025-04-29T08:01:48Z",
"custom_s_local_url":"/greater-syracuse/about-us/blog/septic-tank-leaking/",
"custom_s_opus_version":"2",
"custom_s_heading":"Septic Tank Leaking",
"custom_s_local_dba":"greater-syracuse",
"custom_dt_created":"2019-05-31T00:00:00Z",
"custom_s_category":"plumbing",
"custom_ss_category":["plumbing"],
"custom_s_article_summary_Image_url":"/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blog-septic-tank-leaking-370.webp",
"custom_t_content_summary_Desc":"Septic systems provide an extremely valuable service, and we rarely ever think about them. When they leak, however, that leak",
"custom_t_content_summary_Image_url_alt":"Septic system with text: Septic tank leaking",
"custom_t_heading":"Septic Tank Leaking",
"custom_t_content":"
Septic systems provide an extremely valuable service, and we rarely ever think about them. When they leak, however, that leak the only thing we can think about. Our water use becomes restricted inside our homes, and outside, our septic tank is leaking into the yard and endangering the environment and health of the community. Needless to say, if this plumbing crisis arises, we want to be able to deal with the situation in a calm, efficient and well-informed manner. In this article, we'll cover the workings of a septic system, the many ways to identify a malfunction and what to do in the event of a leak.
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How Does a Septic System Work?
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While many different septic system designs exist, their basic function is the same. They are all designed to convert the blackwater and graywater from households into a less contaminated effluent that can blend with the groundwater in a way that does not negatively impact the environment or human health.
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Septic systems can be either passive or active, although the vast majority of residential septic systems are passive. Passive systems consist of three primary components:
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Inlet pipe: Household wastewater travels through this pipe on its way to the septic tank.
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Septic tank: This container biologically degrades organic solid waste.
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Absorption component: This is typically a gravity drain field.
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When you flush your toilet, the wastewater goes down an inlet pipe and into a septic tank. When the wastewater enters, an equivalent amount of effluent gets displaced in the tank and exits to the drain field. Eventually, this effluent gets absorbed into the ground.
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The septic tank contains many anaerobic bacteria, which feed on the solid organic material found in the wastewater. The quantity of bacteria depends on how much organic material is in the tank, so when the tank is low, the number of bacteria decreases, and when water usage is higher, the quantity of bacteria increases.
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Septic tanks are designed to maintain a certain minimum water level so that the bacteria don't die out. Without this feature, the tank could easily go empty when the house is vacant, such as when a family goes on vacation, and no water is being used.
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Anaerobic bacteria are slow acting, so it is critical to maximize the amount of time that the wastewater is in contact with the bacteria in the tank. The time is known as the \"holding time\" and can be defined as the length of time from when the wastewater enters the tank until it flows out.
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Generally speaking, septic tanks are meant to hold wastewater for around two days. During this period, the bacteria break down the solid organic material found in the wastewater, reducing the strength of the material by roughly 40 percent. As the amount of water used by the household varies, the volume of wastewater that flows through the tank increases or decreases proportionately. This, in turn, determines the length of the holding time and how much processing occurs in the tank.
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When the wastewater leaves the tank, the effluent, which now contains around 60 percent of its original solid material, travels to the drain field and carries along with it the anaerobic bacteria. In the drain field, the anaerobic bacteria continue to treat the effluent, removing much of the organic material that remains before the effluent blends in with the groundwater.
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Signs of Septic Tank Problems
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Septic tanks are susceptible to leaks and other types of damage, and these issues are often accompanied by warning signs such as odd smells, abnormally lush vegetation and overflowing toilets. Both new and old systems can experience problems, and a system failure can suddenly occur if a new family moves into the house, as their cooking, laundry and showering habits are often different from those of the previous residents.
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Here are some common warning signs of a malfunctioning septic system:
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1. Foul Odor
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If you smell sewer gases, this may mean that one of the system's lids is either damaged or out of position. This could be either the lid to the filter access port or septic tank riser. These sewer gases could also be escaping from the tank body itself, meaning that the tank body may have cracks or holes.
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You may notice this for only several minutes or for long periods. Try to figure out where exactly the odors are the strongest. Is it near the tank itself, the drain field or from the next door neighbor's tank? Keep in mind that this odor may be coming from the drain field, and it does not necessarily mean that your tank is damaged.
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2. Lush Vegetation
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Lush vegetation can be another warning sign of a septic tank leaking. It may also mean that the system is overflowing or that a nearby pipe has been damaged or somehow come loose. If your drain field or filters are clogged, this may cause a soggy area to form in the area around the drain field or the tank, which in turn will cause more vegetation to grow.
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3. Soggy Yard
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If you notice that the area around your tank is soggy, this may be septic tank water coming out of the ground. Make sure to rule out your sprinkler system first, though, as this can also cause areas of your yard to become soggy.
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4. Standing Water Around Septic Tank
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When soil is exposed to wet conditions over long periods, it will often compact. If there is a leak in your tank, water coming from the leak could cause the nearby soil to settle and drop down as a result. This is especially likely if the area surrounding your septic tank consists of loose backfill that was dumped there after the septic tank was placed in the hole. When soil settles and drops down, this allows water from rainfall and sprinklers to collect there.
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It should be noted that foul odors or wet areas do not necessarily mean a leaking or damaged septic tank. The sewer line leading to the septic tank may also be the source of the problem. These sewer lines are typically laid in trenches, and if the line breaks, the trenches may be allowing the wastewater to travel towards the tank.
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5. Toilets or Sinks Are Backing up or Slow to Drain
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These occurrences are sometimes a warning that the tank has been damaged. Sometimes the roots of trees block and damage the area where effluent flows out of the tank. In other instances, this is due to a collapsed baffle, which can also create blockages and cause the drain field to fail. Tank or sewer lines can also back up as a result.
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Backing up can also be a result of a tank that is too full of scum and sludge. It is common for plumbing companies and technicians who inspect tanks to use a \"sludge judge\" to help figure out how much scum, sludge and effluents are in a septic tank. If the scum and sludge together comprise more than a third of the entire tank volume, this may cause the tank to fail, and it will most likely need to be pumped.
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6. Alarm Sounds
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If you own a newer septic system, there is probably a built-in alarm that will alert you of problems. These alarms either emit a beeping noise or flash a red light, and they can be located either inside or outside of your house.
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Why Is My Septic Tank Leaking?
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An overflowing septic tank can be the result of several factors, namely a failure to properly maintain the system, the presence of cleaning products in the wastewater, environmental factors and design flaws.
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1. Insufficient Maintenance
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As wastewater goes through the tank, nonbiodegradable materials settle on the bottom of the tank immediately, as does some solid waste. With time, the sludge level rises. It is recommended that septic tanks are pumped every three to five years to prevent an overflow. Of course, how frequently the tank is pumped depends on both the size of the tank and how much wastewater it handles. For instance, a tank that holds 1,000 gallons in a household of four people should be pumped every two and a half years. If a four-person household has a 1,500-gallon tank, on the other hand, they will only need to pump out the tank every four years or so.
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2. Cleaning Products Are Killing the Useful Bacteria
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As mentioned above, the bacteria found in a septic tank help break down the wastewater before it continues to the drainage field. If the levels of bacteria in the tank are insufficient, the solids will not break down, and they will start to accumulate at a faster rate than usual. This may lead to the tank overflowing or the clogging of drainage pipes or trenches.
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The levels of bacteria can drop as a result of cleaning products present in the wastewater. Any cleaning products that are toxic to human beings can also kill off the bacteria that are necessary to maintain a septic system. For this reason, it is crucial that cleaning products such as bleach, toilet cleaners and disinfectants do not make their way into the waste piping.
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3. Damaged Pipes Between Tank and Drainage Field
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As wastewater that has been broken down leaves the septic tank, it travels through several pipes and into a drainage field. If the pipes in this area are damaged, this can also lead to an overflow. Sometimes tree roots manage to grow through the pipes, which may cause the pipe walls to collapse and prevent proper drainage. Overflow can also result from clogged pipes.
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4. Poorly Designed System
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Overflow occasionally results from a system that has been designed improperly. Drainage pipes typically require a 1 to 2 percent slope so that the wastewater can drain properly. If the slope of the pipes is too shallow, the wastewater will not flow as needed, and the pipe must be replaced.
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Solutions for a Leaking Septic Tank
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When you know that you've got a leak on your hands, how do you handle it? Here are our top tips:
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1. Do Not Pump Water Out
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We will start with what you absolutely should not do — do not pump water from your tank into your yard. This poses a severe health hazard, as children and pets could walk through it, and it could make its way into a stream. This, in turn, could lead to waterborne disease, which can be quite deadly and spread rapidly from person to person.
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2. Determine the Exact Location of Your System
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When a tank is flooded, water will come through any opening, including the inlet and outlet pipes, the manhole cover or the cover to the tank. This then may fill up the tank with groundwater, which may carry with it soil and silt. If this happens, floating waste that is already inside the tank, such as scum, will then rise and may plug up the inlet and outlet pipes. Water from the drain field may also make its way into the tank.
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You should find out exactly where the tank and drain field are on your property. If you are not sure, call the health district office in your area. They may have files containing information on the installation of your septic system. Find out the depth of your drain field as well as the depth to the top of your tank. You can measure the depth down to the top of the tank by sticking a pointed metal rod into the ground there. Most tanks are just two to three feet down from the surface.
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3. Inspect for Damage
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Inspect around the septic tank and drain field for any indications of damage. Common indicators are things like holes in the soil or soil settling. If you see any signs of damage, hire a licensed professional to come and inspect your system. Try to avoid using heavy machinery near the drain field or tank while the soil is soaked.
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4. Measure the Depth of the Groundwater
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Measure the groundwater depth around the tank and the drain field. You can do this with a soil probe, or you can dig a hole using an auger. Do this within 10 feet of your tank and approximately 20 feet from the drain field. If you determine that the top of the tank is at least 3 feet above the water table, but the drain field remains saturated or flooded, then use your tank as a holding tank.
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In this case, you should have the tank pumped, but make sure to leave at least 50 percent of the volume in the tank. If you remove any more, because of the water around the septic tank, the tank may want to float upward, which may damage the connecting pipes. While the tank is being pumped, water may enter the tank from the drain field and the house. The technician doing the pumping should make sure that the outlet pipe is not blocked.
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With the exception of a mound system, the majority of drain fields are located 2 to 4 feet below the surface of the ground. It will be a good while before the groundwater recedes down to the bottom of the drain field. It could take anywhere from a week to several months. To avoid causing damage, regularly monitor the water table depth around the drain field.
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5. If You Have a Mound System, Turn off the Power
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Above-ground septic tanks with a mound for infiltrating wastewater often feature a lift station. If your electrical control box is surrounded by water, absolutely make sure you've turned off the power before touching it. Then, open up the cover and let it dry out. However, before turning on the control box, get a licensed electrician to examine the components and see if they are safe to handle. If your pumping chamber and septic tank are separate, then make sure you get the two pumped out at the same time.
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Because the majority of the mound is above the ground, it will normally dry out more quickly than a drain field underground. However, you should still regularly check the water table depth around the mound. You may use your septic system as long as the water table is at least a foot below the surface of the ground and the pump chamber and tank have been pumped.
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6. Reduce Water Use
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When the septic system can be used again, it is helpful for the household to reduce its water use. Make sure that no sinks or showers are dripping and that no toilets are running. Even if a faucet drips only one drop every 15 seconds, over time this can add up to a large volume of water in the septic tank. If any fixtures are leaking, get them repaired as soon as you can.
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The water from your basement sump pump should not go into the septic tank. Also, make sure that it does not drain anywhere near the drain field area. Water from roof gutters should also be directed away from the drain field.
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Try to minimize how often you flush the toilet, go to a laundromat to wash your clothes, decrease how often you bathe and only use the dishwasher if it is full.
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Try to use common sense when reducing your water use. The drain field was only made to handle the amount of water that normally comes from your home. If the water table is high around the drain field, the drain field becomes limited in its ability to handle the water from your house.
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7. If You Continue to Experience Problems, Hire a Licensed Professional
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If you're still having plumbing issues have the water table has returned to normal levels, the septic tank or drain field may have been damaged. When the groundwater is high, setting and shifting can occur, and this can affect the septic tank as well as the drain field's distribution system. The septic tank's inlets and outlets can also become blocked as a result. If any of these things happen, contact a septic system installer or licensed septic tank pumper.
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Schedule a Plumbing Service with Mr. Rooter of Greater Syracuse Today
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One thing this article has not taught you is how to fix a leaking septic tank. That is because it's best if you leave this difficult and potentially hazardous task in the hands of professionals. If you're a homeowner or business owner in need of septic services the greater Syracuse, N.Y., area, Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Greater Syracuse is the service you want to repair your septic system.
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With Mr. Rooter, you get the best of both worlds — we have both the abundant resources of a national chain and the committed customer service of a local business. Our plumbers are certified and licensed by Onondaga County in detecting leaks and handling all plumbing-related projects. They're also insured, which means that your property is in safe hands. From small drain problems to emergency pipe repairs, they have had experience with a broad range of plumbing issues.
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If you are not currently experiencing issues but would like to avoid them in the future, you can also hire us to perform an inspection of your system. We also install new septic systems.
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We service the cities of Auburn, Baldwinsville, Camillus, Liverpool, Manlius, Skaneateles, Syracuse and beyond. Set up an appointment on our site, or if you are in need of emergency repairs, you can contact at any time by calling us.
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Generally, a catch basin is a drainage system designed to carry water away from your home and perhaps direct it across the property before it runs to a public storm-water system, dry well, local water body or into the ground. A catch basin can take many forms, but it’s common to see some kind of grate over an angled inlet, often with an in-ground concrete or plastic basin that catches the water. From there it may be pumped out and released elsewhere, routed via subsurface pipe to a release location or allowed to evaporate.![\"dry](\"http://www.mrrooter.com/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blogs-us-a-guide-to-residential-catch-basins-and-dry-wells4.webp\" "\\"dry")
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The depth and diameter of the dry well depend on how much and what kind of water you want to convey, how often it will come, the percolation rate of the soil around it, the slope and several other factors.![\"a](\"http://www.mrrooter.com/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blogs-us-a-guide-to-residential-catch-basins-and-dry-wells6.webp\" "\\"a")
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Like in the catch basin, a buildup of leaves, sediment and other assorted materials inhibit or prevent the function of a dry well, and that is when the bigger headaches can come in the form of flooding, damage, standing water, foul smells and even dangerous bacteria.![\"dry](\"http://www.mrrooter.com/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blogs-us-a-guide-to-residential-catch-basins-and-dry-wells9.webp\" "\\"dry")
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Dry-well replacement can cost in the range of ![\"catch](\"http://www.mrrooter.com/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blogs-us-a-guide-to-residential-catch-basins-and-dry-wells11.webp\" "\\"catch")
Depending on what goes wrong with a catch basin or the conditions under which one is installed, installation or rebuilding costs might range from ![\"definition](\"http://www.mrrooter.com/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blogs-us-a-guide-to-residential-catch-basins-and-dry-wells12.webp\" "\\"definition")
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One of the EPA’s charges is to study and research how best to distribute the water society uses, ultimately without any harm to the supply or environment. The agency lists ways to prevent debris and the garbage that blows around from entering storm and sewer drains. Among these tips is using catch basins with accessories such as hoods, screens and fabric inserts.![\"residential](\"http://www.mrrooter.com/us/en-us/mr-rooter/_assets/images/mrr-blogs-us-a-guide-to-residential-catch-basins-and-dry-wells14.webp\" "\\"residential")
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